Île de la Barthelasse: Avignon's countryside, on foot
Facing the walls of Avignon, separated by the Rhône, there is a green and almost entirely agricultural island: the Barthelasse. It is where I go to walk when the old town gets too dense — and where the finest view of the city is found.
There is a moment in every Avignon trip when the old town gets a little dense. The ramparts, the lanes, the busy terraces — it is beautiful, but at some point you crave an open horizon. When that happens to me, I cross the Rhône. Ten minutes of walking, and I go from medieval stone to market gardens, poplar trees and a wide open sky.
This place is called the Île de la Barthelasse. It is said to be one of the largest river islands in Europe — and most visitors to Avignon never set foot on it. That is exactly what makes it one of my favourite recommendations.
An island facing the city
The Rhône on one side, Avignon on the other
The Barthelasse stretches through the Rhône, right opposite the city walls. On one side, the great arm of the river separates it from Avignon; on the other, a calmer arm separates it from Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. Seen from the city, it looks like a long green band — and that is exactly what it is.
Despite sitting next to a historic city, the Barthelasse is not a landscaped park. It is genuine countryside: market gardens, orchards, poplar groves, farms, a few houses. You walk between cultivated fields. It is rural, quiet, and smells of earth and water.
Getting there on foot from inside the walls
The most direct route from the old town is the Pont Daladier, which crosses the Rhône from the north-western quarter of Avignon — not far from the Rocher des Doms and the Saint-Bénézet bridge. The bridge has a lane for pedestrians and cyclists. From the centre, allow about twenty minutes of easy walking.
Historically, a small river ferry (bac) has also linked the city to the island — a short, free crossing, in the old-fashioned spirit. I prefer to stay cautious here: its operation and timetable vary by season and by year, so ask locally before counting on it. If the ferry is running during your stay, it is a lovely way to arrive on the island, right at water level.
Walking and cycling along the banks
The riverside path
The great pleasure of the Barthelasse is following the Rhône. On the city-facing side, a riverside path runs along the river: a flat route, shaded in places, perfect for walking or cycling. You pass Avignon joggers, families, people walking their dogs. The pace there is slow.
If you enjoy cycling, the island is ideal: no hills, little traffic on the small farm roads, and that riverside path unrolling kilometres of view facing the city. It is one of the few genuinely restful bike rides you can do from Avignon without a car.
The view everyone talks about
Here is the real reason to go to the island, even if you only have an hour: the view of Avignon.
From the Barthelasse bank, you face the complete postcard — the Pont Saint-Bénézet reaching out into the river, and behind it the golden mass of the Palace of the Popes sitting on the Rocher des Doms. It is the angle everyone has already seen without knowing where it was taken from. Well, it is taken from here.
My advice: come at golden hour, in late afternoon. The low light kindles the stone, the river turns coppery, and the bridge stands sharp against the sky. It is, without hesitation, the finest free viewpoint in Avignon.
Picnics, swimming and the warm season
Spreading a blanket facing the river
The island lends itself wonderfully to a picnic. Buy something to eat at the Halles market in Avignon in the morning, cross the bridge, and find a patch of grass facing the Rhône. No reservation, no bill — just the river, the poplars and the city opposite.
Swimming: with caution
The Barthelasse is home to a municipal open-air swimming pool, which opens in the summer season. That is the safe and pleasant option for a swim. I will not give hours or prices here because they change every year — check with the Avignon town hall before heading out.
As for the Rhône itself, let me be clear: I strongly discourage wild swimming. The river is powerful, its currents are treacherous and the bed is uneven. Dip your feet, admire the water — but for a real swim, stick to the pool.
Summer guinguettes
In the warm season, the guinguette spirit returns to the water’s edge on the island side — a few simple spots to have a drink facing the river. The offer shifts from one year to the next and hours are seasonal, so I will not promise anything in writing. Ask me when you arrive: I will tell you what is open during your stay.
Our host tip
The best time. Spring and autumn are perfect for walking or cycling — mild weather, good light, few people. In high summer, set out early in the morning or save the island for the end of the day: it is golden hour, and also the hour when the heat eases.
How to get there from the walls. Leave the old town on the north-western side, towards the Rocher des Doms and the Saint-Bénézet bridge. Follow the banks to the Pont Daladier, cross it on the pedestrian-and-cycle lane, and you are there. Twenty minutes of walking, not a metre of climb.
What I bring. Water, a hat in summer, and picnic supplies if I am aiming for late afternoon. For cycling, a lock — even though the island is quiet, it pays to be careful.
From our apartments
My three apartments — Lavande Évasion, Lavande Dorée and Cinéma Provence — share the same building, at 13B rue du Bon Martinet, in the Teinturiers quarter, right at the heart of Avignon intra-muros. The Île de la Barthelasse is reachable on foot from the front door: head towards the north-west of the old town and cross the Pont Daladier — about twenty minutes of easy walking, not a metre of climb.
Whether you are a couple in the cosy Lavande Évasion or a family in the larger Cinéma Provence, the move is the same: leave the car parked, cross the bridge, and spend the afternoon on the island — the perfect nature break in the middle of a city stay.
The Barthelasse is the quiet antidote to the density of the old town. A green island, a river, and the finest view of Avignon offered free to anyone willing to cross a bridge.
About this article
How do you reach the Île de la Barthelasse on foot?
The easiest route from inside the walls is the Pont Daladier, which crosses the Rhône from the north-western quarter of the city. Allow about twenty minutes on foot from the centre. A small free river ferry has also historically linked the city to the island; ask locally to find out whether it still runs and on what seasonal schedule.
What is there to do on the Île de la Barthelasse?
The island is mostly green and agricultural: people come to walk or cycle along the riverside path, picnic facing the Rhône, and enjoy the panorama of the Saint-Bénézet bridge and the Palace of the Popes. A municipal open-air swimming pool also operates there in season.
Can you swim in the Rhône from the island?
The Rhône is a powerful river, with treacherous currents and an uneven bed: wild swimming is strongly discouraged. To swim safely, head for the island's municipal open-air pool, open in summer (check current opening hours and prices with the Avignon town hall).
When is the best time to visit the Barthelasse?
Late afternoon, at golden hour: the low light sets the stone of the Palace and the bridge ablaze, seen from the island bank. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons for walking; in summer, set out early in the morning or in the evening to avoid the heat.
Are there guinguettes or restaurants on the island?
In the warm season, a few riverside spots open on the island side, in the guinguette spirit. The offer changes from year to year and hours are seasonal, so I prefer not to promise anything. Ask me on arrival and I will tell you what is running during your stay.
